Modern battery date decoding is a task to avoid if possible. Join me as I describe a sequence of events you’ve probably experienced a time or two:
You want to find the age of a customer’s battery. You start by looking at the top of the battery and hoping for a simple MM/YY sticker or an in-service date written in paint pen. Today is not your lucky day, so you peek around the sides of the case with a flashlight. Sorry, Charlie, you’ll need to remove the battery to see the code stamped near the bottom of this case, fully obscured by the tray lip. And somebody deleted the battery carry handle for your inconvenience.
You remove the battery and finally see the relevant code in the mix of marks on the case: D3. Letters are almost always months, so you can be reasonably certain that a) this battery was made in a month of April sometime between now and the debut of the maintenance-free automotive battery in 1971, and b) its zodiac sign is Aries: a leader, self-confident, passionate, all very good qualities for a battery. The month part of the code is practically useless for techs and customers alike outside of warranty claims. So you move on.
That leaves the numeral part of this example code, 3. Let’s say you’re working on a 1994 Suburban. The code D3 could belong to the original battery, a 2003, a 2013, or a 2023, depending on who made the battery and when it was installed. A tech or half-decent DIYer won’t have much trouble figuring out the correct year, but this is another area where existing date code systems have room for improvement.